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WEINBERG'S WINE NOTES: Time for syrah to take its fitting place in the sun Although many of my closest friends swear by syrah, I've never been a huge fan. It's an ancient varietal, one of the primary grapes of the Rhone Valley, a major constituent of Cotes du Rhone and Chateauneuf du Pape and the only grape in St. Joseph and Hermitage. But I've still never really liked syrah as much as my go-to grapes: cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese, nebbiolo and especially pinot noir. And that's a problem, because while there's certainly some flabby juice out there, at its best, syrah makes some pretty terrific wine. In the Rhone Valley, the original home of this noble grape, one can get a sense of the region's history from the numerous castles and keeps that still dominate the landscape. Long-ago kings often reserved the best of the vintage for their own tables, but in today's more egalitarian society, anyone can buy a terrific bottle of French syrah. Although the top cuvees have become astronomically expensive, a lot of great wine still is available at reasonable prices. I recommend the dependable Paul Jaboulet Aine Cotes du Rhone Parallele 45, full of violets and grill flavorings. I also like the supple Domaine de Beaurenard Cotes du Rhone, all plum and licorice root. From California, where the long summer days allow the grape to ripen more fully and evenly than it generally does in Europe, a highly consistent style of wine is possible. But sometimes the grapes get too ripe, and when combined with a lot of new oak, the wines can seem clunky and uneven. The best examples are fresh and deep, with persistent, smooth tannins. Try the Clos Mimi Petite Rousse Paso Robles Syrah, redolent of herbs and rare beef. Also seek out the Novy Syrah Sonoma County, bursting with pepper and wild berries. In Australia (and some other places), syrah is often called shiraz. The term often, but not always, denotes a different style of syrah, more extracted and tannic, but it is the same grape. The Aussie shiraz I prefer is made in an Old World style using traditional techniques. I recommend you go for the Razor's Edge Shiraz South Australia, a mouthful of velvety, smoky berries. Washington state wineries often specialize in syrah because of the complementary climate that allows the grapes to grow ripe without spoiling. Washington is a bit of relatively undiscovered wine country right here in the U.S., definitely on the rise, and I highly recommend you seek out its wines. Try the Barnard Griffin Syrah Columbia Valley, with deft pomegranate and oaky goodness. Although syrah is relatively new in South Africa, smart winemakers have benefited from watching how other areas deal with the grape. They are doing some wonderful things, blending traditional and innovative techniques to produce the best possible juice. Seek out the Jardin Syrah Stellenbosch, full of figs, currants and dark chocolate. Finally, please note that syrah should not be confused with petite sirah (also called Douriff), which, although similar in appearance to syrah, is usually significantly darker, deeper in flavor and higher in tannin. I very much like petite sirah and recommend the Rosenblum Petite Sirah San Francisco Bay Heritage Clones from California, chock-full of blackberry pie and chewy chocolate. Another winner is the violet- and blueberry-flavored De Bortoli Petite Sirah Vat 1 from Australia. Yes, syrah has a long, distinguished history, and it should have a place at your table. Don't make the same mistake I did in ignoring its possibilities. Remember that when it comes to wine, there are very few rules. And if you find one that you don't really like? Que syrah syrah. Ben Weinberg
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